Queen Elisabeth Doll

This is the mocks for a Queen Elisabeth bum roll, spanish fathingale, under skirt and over skirt.

 

Bum roll front

Bum roll front

Bum roll back

Bum roll back

 

Spanish Farthingale front

Spanish Farthingale front

Spanish Farthingale Back

Spanish Farthingale Back

Under skirt front

Under skirt front

Under skirt back

Under skirt back

Over skirt front

Over skirt front

Over skirt back

Over skirt back

Outer skirt back detail

Outer skirt back detail

Pattern Drafting

Last night was my first night of Pattern Drafting class at Apperal Arts http://www.apparel-arts.com/ and I actually picked up a few tidbits.

When measuring keep the top edge of the tape facing the direction of greatest width.  The top edge of the tape is the top side when you can read the numbers right side up.  When measuring under bust you want the tape right side up.  When measuring the high hip and low hip you want the tape upside down so the top edge is against the greater width which toward the floor.

There is this roller thing I have always wondered about.  I have heard about it being used and used in pattern drafting and such but never really understood it.  When you place some transfer paper, kinda like carbon paper, folded so you have transfer stuff on the outside on top and bottom.  You place this between the your two layers of fabric and then trace out things like darts the marks will be transferred to the fabric giving you a better guide to sew.

When drawing out the waist to high hip to low hip you don’t need to make it a nice curve.  Leaving it as straight lines is preferred.  I am still skeptical about this one but will with it.

One of the more challenging things for me will be to determine who am I making things for.  Since I am a boy and I am making girl patterns, I want to be able to have them be used instead of just hanging around and collecting dust.  Dolly, my dress form at home does not match what is at the school and I would like to dress more than just Dolly.  I need to find one or more helpers to model for me.  mmm….

 

 

Bought Pattern Instuctions

Most of the time bought pattern instructions are guidelines.  And then there are times when a specific step(s) have an impact on the what the garment is supposed to look like.  The Folkware Victorian Shirt is one of those patterns where the placket in the the front is meant to be done a specific way or it just does not look right.  I thought I was following instructions when I make the muslin mockup for fit but it just did not seem right.  It kept bugging me, so when I had down time this morning I went and read and re-read and re-re-read the instructions.

A picture is worth a 1000 words right… well it is if the picture is clear as to what it is doing.  The words made sense but I was not seeing what they were talking about in their picture.  Did they actual mean what they said or what they drew…

Sometimes my eyes play tricks on me and I don’t see things the way the artist intended.   This is one of those cases.  I thought I saw the end of the folded over placket coming down where in fact the image was trying to show the pleat coming up from below and the placket was meant to be in the front of the shirt.

To be more clear.

Fold over and press the plackets.  Top stitch from about 1/2″ down from the corer up to the neck to close it.  A good way to know where to stop is, after ironing, tuck both plackets into the inside of the shirt.  Once done top stitching, bring button hole placket (left) out to the front.  Now, box pleat the open area on top or the button placket (right) so it is the same size as the placket.  Baste stitch down.  Put the button hole placket on top of the pleat so you have a sandwich (from inside to outside) right placket, then box pleat, then left placket.  Top stitch that sandwich down and put o the bar to make it look neat.

Washing Fabric

Having pre-washed fabric is always recommended.  Just so I don’t cut into my fabric, I leave the washing of it till I know what I am doing.  I even pre-wash the muslin.  I have done the muslin mockups.  Now I have a good idea how the pieces fit together, so it is time to wash the fabric I am actually going to use for the garments.

Today is the day to wash fabric.  I prefer to wash fabric with other things that wont bleed into it.  I also find that if I edge it with a zig-zag it does not frae very far.  Sometimes it needs a little more than just a zig-zag stitch, it needs surging.

I use zig-zag on fabric that has a tight weave.  I find I only need to zig-zag the ends because the finished salvage is woven in such a way it will not frae.  When the fabric is a loose weave like wool or other natural fibers I find that I actually need to surge around all the edges.  This means that the 7 plus yards of wool needs to be surged before it goes in the wash.

All  the fabric that is going to be used in the garment(s) needs to be pre-washed.  It needs to be pre-washed because if one part of the garment is not pre-washed, it may change size or shape after it is already apart of the finished garment.  It would really suck if say the interfacing shrunk and the fashion fabric did not.  You basically have a garment you were proud of but you no longer want to wear just it does not look good and it just feels odd.  So wash everything.

Most fabric can go into a front loader washing machine.  I try to wash fabric with clothes of the same color.  This way the fabric does not feel like it is being picked on and will not distort the weave.

Dryers are something to consider.  Cotton and rayon is just fine in the dryer.  When you start doing synthetics you will need to keep an eye on the temp to make sure it does not get too hot.  Yet another reason to wash with other clothes, so the fabric you are pre-washing does not get the full force of the dryer heat.  Silk is like synthetics,  not too much heat please.

Wool, if it is a small enough piece, you can wrap it in a towel to dry.  You can put it in the dryer.  You must not over dry it or you may end up with felt instead of the lovely fabric you put in.  You can always pull it out a little early and let it finish drying at room temp.  If that is not an option (due to small children / pets who want to help / or just no space) you can monitor the dryer as it get closer to being dry.  You can also just put it on air dry.  Still, too much tumbling and you may end up with felt.

Interfacing can be treated like fabric EXCEPT if it is fusible.  if it is fusible DO NOT put in dryer.  You may not want to put it in the washer.  If the fusing substance on the backing comes off easy you don’t want it coming off in the wash.  Bad for the washer and worse for getting an even fuse of the two fabrics.  Wash by hand and roll in a towel to dry.  Also if you are using any type of tape you should wash it in a bowel and roll it in a towel as well.

Yep, there is a lot to wash but it pays off when your garment does not go out of joint.  Also by pre-washing it, you are setting up how you will care for the garment.  If you do not pre-wash the fabric, and sometimes that is necessary,  it will a Dry Clean only garment.